Winter Lake Toya and the View of Mount Yotei: Snowy Farmland and a Fireplace Stay

When people picture Lake Toya in winter, many imagine a snow-view onsen or a quiet stretch of lakeshore. But what we, as locals, most want to show visitors is the scenery of the farmland that spreads out a little away from the onsen town. The harvested fields turn into a vast field of snow, and beyond it Mount Yotei stands quietly. It is a world of almost nothing man-made—only white and blue. Kamonoya, which runs 11 whole-house rentals around Lake Toya, introduces the winter view of Mount Yotei and how to stay right in the middle of that scenery. For how to enjoy Lake Toya in winter overall, see our winter Lake Toya guide.

Distant view of Toya Farmer's House and Mount Yotei in winter

Mount Yotei rising beyond the snowfield

Mount Yotei shows a beautiful conical silhouette on the north side of Lake Toya. It is graceful in summer too, but its winter form, cloaked entirely in white, is something else again—there are moments when the snow-covered slopes glow faintly pink in the morning light.

The most satisfying place to view this mountain is somewhere with nothing in the way. Farmland spreads out around Lake Toya, and in winter those fields become open snowfields. With few power lines and few buildings, there is only the white plane of the snow, the mountain, and the sky. The scene is so simple that there is hardly any question of how to frame it. In some directions, you can see all the way past the snowfield to the surface of Lake Toya.

Lake Toya is known as a non-freezing lake, and even in midwinter it almost never freezes over completely. Beyond the white snowfield you can see the deep, unfrozen navy of the water. This contrast is scenery that only those who come here in winter can take home with them.

Winter in the countryside — where having nothing becomes a luxury

Mount Yotei in winter and snow-covered farmland

Winter in the farmland is astonishingly quiet. Because the snow absorbs sound, about all you can hear is the crunch of your own boots on the snow and the wind in the distance. Time here flows at the opposite extreme from the bustle of a tourist spot.

On a clear morning, the snowfield holds only the snow that fell the night before, and sometimes a trail of animal tracks runs across it in dots. As the sun dips, the surface of the snow sinks into blue, and after dark the stars stand out beautifully thanks to a darkness that only a place with few streetlights can offer. It is a place where “doing nothing” clearly becomes a luxury.

That said, whether Mount Yotei shows itself depends on the weather. In winter there are many days when it hides in cloud, and it is not unusual to stay several days and see it clearly just once. That is exactly why the joy of opening the curtains in the morning to find the mountain in view is so special. Settling in for a longer stay is, we think, the way to keep company with this scenery.

Your base: Toya Farmer’s House

The area around a snow-wrapped Toya Farmer's House and Mount Yotei

Standing in the middle of this rural winter landscape is Toya Farmer’s House (up to 18 guests, from ¥25,000/night). As the name suggests, it is a large whole-house rental surrounded by fields, and in winter the grounds around the building turn into an unbroken snowfield.

The star of this house in winter is the fireplace. Even when it is below freezing outside, it is gently warm beside the flames. Come back chilled to the bone from a walk across the snowfield, sit down in front of the fire, and you won’t want to go anywhere else. The kitchen is fully equipped, as at all our properties, so you can stock up at a supermarket on the way and end the day gathered around a hot pot—a very wintry way to spend an evening. For where to buy ingredients and local food tips, see our Lake Toya food guide.

With room for up to 18 guests, this large property also suits three-generation family trips and journeys with close friends. Because it is a whole-house booking with no other guests to run into, there is no need to worry if the children get a little lively. When choosing lodging for a large group, do also see our large-group stay guide.

Getting around in winter — winter tires are essential; allow extra time

If you are visiting for this scenery in winter, do not cut corners when it comes to preparing the car. Winter tires (studless tires) are essential. When arranging a rental car, be sure to confirm that it is fitted with winter tires.

Because the roads in farming areas carry little traffic, the surface easily turns to packed snow or ice—especially morning and evening, and on shaded curves, where it becomes slippery. Bridges also chill quickly. Avoid sudden braking and sharp steering, leave more distance than usual between cars, and drive slowly. Snowfall can also reduce visibility.

As a rough guide, it is about 2 hours by car from New Chitose Airport and about 2 hours by car from Sapporo, but it is safer to assume winter roads will take extra time. The sun also sets early, so it is reassuring to plan your first day to reach the lodging while it is still light. If you travel by JR, it is about 20 minutes by bus from Toya Station to the onsen town.

Enjoying winter Lake Toya even more

Lake Toya seen from Toya Farmer's House in winter

Beyond gazing at the snowfield and Mount Yotei, there are many ways to spend time at Lake Toya in winter. Warm up while watching the snow at the free hand baths and foot baths dotted around the onsen town, take a quiet walk along the lakeshore, or head out to the Usuzan Ropeway and Showa-Shinzan to take in the scenery of volcano and snow. For details, see our winter Lake Toya guide and our Mount Usu & Showa-Shinzan guide.

If your goal is skiing or snowboarding, Lake Toya makes an excellent base. It is about 30 minutes by car to Rusutsu and about 1 hour to Niseko. You can set things up to ski during the day and return to a quiet lodge at night. We explain this in detail in how to use Lake Toya as a ski base.

Besides Toya Farmer’s House, we also have lodgings with a fireplace or a wood stove.

You can view all 11 properties on our facilities list.

Booking directly through our official site is the best-value official rate, with no agency commission (best-rate guarantee). Check availability here.

FAQ

Q. Can I always see Mount Yotei from Toya Farmer’s House?

It depends on the weather. On a clear day you can see Mount Yotei beyond the snowfield, and in some directions Lake Toya as well, but in winter there are plenty of days when cloud hides the mountain. Your chances are relatively good on a calm, clear morning. If the scenery is your aim, staying several nights rather than just one increases your opportunities to catch it.

Q. Can I get there in winter without a car?

For properties in the heart of the onsen town, you can reach them in about 20 minutes by bus from JR Toya Station and can get by on foot. Toya Farmer’s House, however, stands in the farmland, so please plan on getting around by car. In that case we recommend a car fitted with winter tires and an itinerary that leaves plenty of time.

Q. I’d like to know more about the facilities at Toya Farmer’s House.

It is a whole-house rental for up to 18 guests, from ¥25,000/night, with a fully equipped kitchen, a fireplace, and BBQ available (whether BBQ is available in winter varies by season). For details on the other facilities and amenities, please check the property page or contact us.